Most breweries that start in Colorado, stay in Colorado. But a few years ago, one brewery moved production to, of all places, Maryland. That brewery had a lot of Colorado cred—a personal friend of the owner was none other than the late, lamented Hunter S. Thompson of Woody Creek, Colo.

Fortunately, the Centennial State replaced that wandering brewery with Salt Lake City, Utah’s Epic Brewing, which set up shop in Denver last year with a large production facility and taproom in the River North neighborhood. And to honor Epic’s new mile-high home, brewers developed a number of beers, including RiNo Pale Ale.

If there’s one word that sums up RiNo Pale Ale it would be: pleasant. RiNo features a crown of pure white head over a liquid that looks almost like Colorado gold. Take a whiff, and you’ll detect the sweet, acidic bitterness that would come from ripe citrus fruit.

For most Denver beer fans, RiNo Pale Ale will be a subtle disappointment—it’s simply not hoppy enough for this hops-crazed town. However, RiNo is an easy drinker that matches a relatively benign bitterness with a mildly sweet backbone. The hops flavors are a recognizable mix of citrus and pine while the malt resembles a small helping of brown sugar. RiNo’s light carbonation and well-behaved aftertaste add to its overall pleasantness.

At 6% ABV, RiNo Pale Ale isn’t the strongest pale ale on the market, but it’s not the weakest either. Grab a couple draughts at the taproom like I did and you’ll find yourself in a spacious drinkery with plenty of ready-to-please servers. Epic suggests pairing RiNo with cheddar cheese, barbecued meats and sweet desserts. I have no reason to doubt those recommendations.

And while Denver may not be good enough for some breweries, Epic has certainly made a pale ale that’s good enough for Denver’s ever-thirsty beer crowd.

Photo via Epic Brewing