More and more, Denver’s River North Arts District can stake a claim to being the Fermenter’s Row of Denver. Wineries, distilleries, cideries and breweries populate the area, and gradually increase the neighborhood’s alcohol by volume with each addition. The newest purveyor—Mockery Brewing—opened in November.

At first glance, there’s very little worth ridiculing about Mockery. The space is sleek and modern with stools that look they could have come from a Scandinavian furniture catalog. It’s not the largest taproom in the beer world, but it provides a good look at the brewery’s fermenters and operations. My favorite bit of decor is all the exposed copper running throughout the room—it’s a subtle touch but something that sets Mockery’s ambience apart. Two flat screen TVs mean football fans can sip a craft beer while watching Peyton Manning’s long decline. In the summer, Mockery’s larger patio will allow plenty of space for drinkers while an abundance of outdoor heaters means outdoor drinking can happen in the colder months. There’s also a game room featuring table-top shuffleboard and other pastimes, though it’s not reliably open in winter because that one is not heated. Denver’s crazy weather, though, could provide a few days of gaming for patrons.

Mockery hasn’t been open long enough for a cast of regular beers yet, but my visit included a selection that’s no joke: Red Session IPA (5% ABV), Peach Blonde Ale (5.8% ABV), Vanilla Bourbon Porter (5.4% ABV), Rye Saison (6.5% ABV), Blonde Ale (5.8% ABV) Salted Scotch Ale (5.8% ABV), Black IPA (6.5% ABV) and Oaked Southern Hemisphere Black IPA (6% ABV).

Pints top out at $5 while four samples runs $6 and eight samples totals $10. Growlers are also available. Mockery’s hours are Mon–Thu: 3 PM–9 PM and Fri–Sun: Noon–10 PM.

Mockery Brewing Company, 3501 Delgany St., 303-953-2058

Photos via Mockery Brewing